This recipe is from Marcella Hazan, who in turn got it from a celebrated 1970s Bologna restaurant with the unlikely name of Al Cantunzein. The classic recipe uses homemade pappardelle. I used factory-made rigatoni. It’s lovely, a perfect summer pasta, with the often elusive flavors of the bell peppers, sweet and bitter, laced through the dish.

Stir and fry two tablespoons of chopped onions in 4 tablespoons of olive oil at medium-high heat. When the onions turn a pale gold, add 4 sweet Italian pork sausage (no fennel or other spices mixed in, please), chopped into half-inch rounds. Cook for another 2 minutes, stirring, then add 1 red and 2 yellow bell peppers, seeded, peeled and chopped into 1-inch squares, and saute for another 7-8 minutes. Add sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, stir well, and then pour in one can of drained, chopped San Marzano tomatoes (no basil or other spices added), and cook at a lively simmer for 15-20 minutes or until the tomatoes float free of the oil. Combine with pasta, toss thoroughly, add 2 tablespoons of butter and 2/3 cup of grated reggiano, and toss thoroughly again. Serve immediately with plenty more reggiano to grate on top.

Easy recipe – the only pain is peeling the damn peppers! I hate that.

Wine was a lively 2007 Saint-Véran from Jean Manciat

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